15 Minute Clincher Tire Mounting in 9 Pictures
By Dan Treace
Mounting a new clincher 30”x 3 ½” tire on the Model T clincher rim can be a headache if you haven’t done that fun chore before!
To help the novice, these photos show some of the steps to make the job go better.
Tools needed for tire changing
1. The tools needed are tire irons, both large and small. Get these flat metal irons at swap meets. The smaller are the Ford factory irons from the T tool kit. The larger ones are better as you have more leverage. Be sure the ends of the irons have no sharp tips. Talc powder. Soapy water and brush. Air hose with chuck, high-pressure tire gage, and a valve tool with T handle and a large rubber Mallet.
Shown are a new Universal T Driver tire, new rubber stem* inner tube, and flap. Flaps are known by rim diameter, so a 30” x 3 ½” tire uses a 21” flap. The nice thick flap is recommended for all clincher tire mounting, it gives more support to the tire sidewalls, and provides a needed cushion for the tube, which lies on the opposing clincher joint of the inner casing, and more impressively, the flap prevents the irons from pinching and puncturing the tube in mounting!
Talcing the tube and liner
2. Talc the tube and the flap so to have a smooth layer of talc power on all surfaces. The flap usually has release agent on it, so the talc helps to eliminate that goop. A new tube will have some talc from the factory, but apply more. The powder reduces chaffing of the tube as it flexes with the tire casing in travel. Apply some talc by dusting inside the tire casing too, but don’t let it lump up in the casing.
Setting up tube and flap for mounting
3. Air up the inner tube slightly round. Not too much air, as you will want the tube and flap to be recessed in the tire casing when mounting. Now wrap the flap around the inner portion of the tube, the flap will have a natural curve to snug around the tube. The rubber valve stem will go thru the stem hole in the flap. Poke the tube and the flap into the casing; take care to see that no folds occur to the tube as the flap covers the tube.
Painting on soap
4. With the tube and flap nestled snugly in the tire; brush on some soap water to the edges of the bead and clincher groove of the tire casing. A little soapy water helps the rubber bead go over the rim. Other lubricant could be used, but be sure it will dry later and won’t remain slick as you want the clincher tire bead to stay fast in the clincher rim channel after mounting.
Using a valve stem tool to pull tube
stem through hole
5. Poke the rubber valve stem into the rim or fellow depending on which style you are mounting. Shown in the picture is the square wood fellow non-demountable Model T wheel. Using a finger inside the tire casing, push on the tube and flap until the valve stem in place. A valve tool can be screwed onto the threaded stem to act as a nifty t-handle to pull the stem in place and to keep the stem from backing down into the fellow or tire, which is a bit of grief in the process. Position or rotate the tire around the rim and align the stem with the ‘lettered’ or logo part of the tire for a neat finish look. Most tire casings have a front and back, with the serial number or DOT markings that you can hide by mounting that side of the tire to the inside of the wheel.
Using tire irons to mount tire
6. Place the tire on the reverse of the wheel and using two irons, begin to fold the clincher bead into the rim channel. In this way, the selected ‘front’ side of the tire will have its clincher bead going into its channel first. Begin at the valve stem area of the bead, lever the irons into the rim channel, and force the tire bead over the rim.
Notice in the picture the more vertical tire iron on the right is keeping the tire bead in the rim as the iron on the left is being worked to lever that portion of the bead in place. Go around the tire and lever the front bead all around as shown in the picture.
Then do the same with the rear bead, pressing on the casing and using the tools to lever the rubber bead over the rim. The tire will stretch…..you’ll think it won’t….but lift and strain, and work those two irons with each hand and the tire will get over that rim!
Using knees to help tire
on
7. Use what you have to keep the tire casing in the rim as you stretch the tire in place. In this photo, the knees join in to press the tire together as the two irons are worked with each hand to get the tire over the rim. Sure, it’s a one-person job, but you sometimes have to have 3 hands or more!
Seating tire beads with
rubber mallet
8. Now that the tire is over the rear rim, you need to be sure the front and rear beads are seated in the clincher channel. Work the tire casing in place and use the mallet to wallop the heck out of the tire casing to be sure the clincher beads are forced into place. You should also lift and drop the whole tire and wheel several times in several places to squash and seat the bead.
New tires have a narrow line molded above the bead, to show that the bead is seated, check visually to be certain the rubber bead is snug in the rim on both sides, all around.
Finished project
9. Finished mounted tire. Now add air to the valve stem until the pressure is at least 60 PSI. Clincher tires are high-pressure tires, and maintain high pressure to ensure the tire beads stay in the rim channels. Now you have done it in only 15 minutes! That new tire should last for a long while. Now….only three more to go!
* Rubber stem tubes are economical, but most have a tapered conical shape, so be sure to test fit the stem into the fellow hole before mounting. Occasionally the stem hole may need enlarging to allow the stem to extend fully. Metal stems are more costly, but have the added advantage of security and better resist twisting or chaffing wear.